BLACK SESAME ICE CREAM
If you want to know where to find the best ice cream in all of Munich (besides our little kitchen) you have to go to Jessa's Eis shop in Glockenbach. Look for the lingering line of customers and the retro VW ice cream van parked out front. It is a miracle on Klenzestraße. Don't worry, the line moves quickly.
There is always a selection of unique and thoughtful flavors that reflect the season and the whims of the dedicated ice cream master, Renato Vanzilotta.
Luckily one of his favorites to make is "Schwarzer Sesam"... If you hadn't already guessed, that's the German for "Black Sesame."
It was there that I fell in love with the taste of black sesame. When toasted, the oils of the seed are complex enough to capture my interest over and over again, yet warm and nutty enough to feel familiar and comforting.
Enjoy!!
Ingredients:
(Makes about a half quart)
2 tablespoons (20 grams) black sesame seeds
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil (Must be Toasted!)
1/2 tablespoon sugar ( 7 grams )
1/2 pinch kosher Salt
1 cup heavy cream (240 ml)
1/2 cup whole milk (120 ml)
40 grams sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 egg yolks
Bowl of ice water
Tools:
Mortar and Pestle* and / or Immersion blender*
Skillet (just a pan for toasting the seeds)
Heavy Bottom Pot or Double boiler (Don’t have a Double Boiler? Don’t worry, just place a medium bowl over the top of a pot with a an inch or two of water simmering in the bottom.)
Whisk
Sieve
Large bowl & smaller bowl (ice bath)
Wooden spoon*
Thermometer*
*Ideal, not essential
Instructions:
To make the Black Sesame Paste:
1. Over medium-low heat, toast the sesame seeds in a pan stirring occasionally until they begin to give off their nutty smell. Do not add oil! They are dry-toasting and secrete their own oil which protects them from sticking.
2. Put them into your mortar and pestle and grind them into a paste.
3. Add the sugar, salt, and toasted sesame oil. Continue to ground them until they are uniform.
To make the Black Sesame Ice Cream Base:
1. Fill a large bowl with cold water and ice. Place a smaller bowl into the icy water to chill. Make sure to have a sieve nearby for later. (This will become an ice bath for cooling the custard later on.)
2. Pour the cream and milk into a heavy-bottomed pot or double boiler over medium heat. Whisk in the sugar and the salt. Stir until they dissolve and steam begins to rise from the top. Remove from the heat.
3. Whisk the egg yolks in a medium bowl. Once it is uniform, add a tablespoon of the warm dairy mixture while still whisking. Repeat until you have added about 3 or 4 tablespoons of the dairy mixture. Then add the yolk mix back into the rest of the dairy mixture and return it to medium heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon. (Try to keep the heat at medium-low - under 80 degrees Celsius). The custard will be done cooking once the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Run your finger across the back of the spoon. If the custard remains separated, it is done cooking.
4. Remove from heat.
5. Strain the custard into the bowl sitting in the ice bath. If you want a uniform black sesame (like I did) add the sesame paste to the custard and stir until it is blended and cool. (about 5 mins) If you want swirls of black sesame instead, do not add your paste yet. You will add it later on during the last few seconds of churning.
6. If you have already added your paste, you may need to use an immersion blender to achieve a smoother consistency, as I did. (The first time I made this recipe, I didn't own a mortar and pestle so my sesame paste was still pretty granular until I blended it.)
7. Refrigerate in an airtight container for at least four hours. Letting it sit even longer, perhaps overnight, is even better.
8. When you are ready to churn, follow the instructions of your ice cream maker. Pour your chilled custard into your machine and let it churn until it has the texture you desire.
9. If you wanted swirls of black sesame paste in your ice cream, add your paste in the last 15 or so seconds before your ice cream machine finishes churning.
10. Once finished, store the ice cream in a pre-chilled, air-tight container and freeze!
This Black Sesame ice cream will keep for about one week.
Notes :
- Finding black sesame: In many western countries, you will have to search the international food aisle for black sesame. I recommend searching out a local Asian grocery store for the best black sesame. Often it is less expensive per pound and they are almost sure to have it. Plus, it's good to support local small businesses.
- There are several options for sesame oil, but for this recipe you should only use toasted sesame oil! While non-toasted sesame oil is good for other purposes, it lacks the complexity of flavor that toasted sesame oil possesses. If you use non-toasted oil, you will not get the hearty sesame flavor you want.
- Good Pairings for Black Sesame: Caramel, Honey, Avocado, Matcha, Banana, Dark Chocolate, Cakes (Vanilla, Honey, Plain, Chocolate)
- Suggested Toppings: More black sesame (toasted if possible!), Fruit (Banana, Fig, Mango), Honey, Caramel, Matcha powder.
